Sweet Tooth — Olive et Gourmando’s seasonal goodies
The apple and cinnamon brioche at Olive et Gourmando
Photos by Erika David
Olive et Gourmando’s apple and cinnamon brioche is back, and it’s probably the best of their brioches ever to go in my mouth.
Seriously. All kinds of awesome.
It looks burnt around the crisp, flaky edges, but it’s plenty moist inside, more so the closer you get to the gooey centre — which is why I unwind and eat it from the outside in, saving the plushest bites for last. Caramelized apples in a sweet reduction are snugly tucked between the folds, wet streaks of cinnamon clinging to the dough as it rises. Plus, some of the sweet juices escape and drip to bottom while it bakes, forming something akin to a thin, sticky layer of caramel that gently shatters when you go in for a bite. As for the finishing touches of icing sugar — what’s a little more sugar when it’s already super sweet?
People say money can’t buy happiness. Clearly those people haven’t spent $3.95 on this apple-cinnamon treat. It’s only available for the fall season, so get it while you can!
Another fall exclusive is the less exciting apple pie muffin ($3.50). It’s not fooling anyone, though — it tastes nothing like apple pie. Because it’s an apple muffin.
Faintly scented with cinnamon, the crumb is loose, reasonably moist and not too sweet, with soft, tart apples here and there. The crumble coating, rolled oats included, gives the top a nice crunch, the sugar clusters sweetening the base. It’s a decent, hearty, morning kind of muffin. But if you decide to skip it in favour of the apple and cinnamon brioche, I feel you. That thing will make your taste buds sing. ■
Olive et Gourmando, 351 Saint-Paul W., Montreal, 514-350-1083